Sunday, December 4, 2011

The Kingès Birthday

Today is a bank / government holiday, and a long weekend for some Thais. It is the day that the King's birthday is celebrated. The King of Thailand has guided his country through thick and thin and has been influential in keeping the country on a path of peace even when all around them conflict and wars errupted. He is much loved by all Thais and it is a criminal offence to defame him. He is respected by Thais of all walks of life and all ethnic cultures. Quite a feat. He is 84 years old this week and has been in poor health for some years.

Last evening was a weekly event called the Sunday Walking Market. A major street running through the main part of the old city of Chaingmai is closed to traffic and becomes a huge market for both vacationing Thais, local Thais and we foreigners. Each side of the street is lined with vendors and for the most part in the middle of the street there are many muscians and entertainers. Someone, quite possibly it was the King, came up with the idea to train blind people to play music as a way to make a living. There were some really innovative and interesting bands as well as individual musicians all sittiing on the pavement to perform.The wats or temple grounds all become food courts with all kinds of fantastic street food. Every so often the market diverges into a side street as well.

There are thousands of people walking on the street and it is quite congested. In the midst of this throng an announcement came about a song for the king and all the Thais lit small candles and sang a beautiful song while us foreigners looked on. In my case I asked someone if the candles were for the King and the man gave me one too. There was absolutely no noise except that of the singing which seemed unbelievable given the throng. I wandered off onto a side street and found the most amazing thing.

A giant stage was set up and a major live show with singing and dancing was taking place to commerate the King's Birthday. It was a huge production with large screens erected so that the crowds could see the entertainment and a movie of the King's lifeprojected onto the large building behind the stage. There were spectacular fireworks and the costumes were amazing. some of the women wore huge gold headresses and it was reminescent of 'Anna and the King'. It was a real trea tfor me because so much of the entertainment offered to tourists of made for tourists and this was for Thais and very authentic. The costuming and performance were on par with an elaborate broadway show or a Las Vegas show.
I just happened to be in the right place at the right time and had a very good view of the stage without having to use the screen to see.

The celebrations would have been much more extensive except the country is in poor shape right now with many people still flooded out of their homes and businesses so the powers that be decided it would be inappropriate this year. The picture is of another stage set up near our guesthouse. We're hoping there will be something there tonight.

Philip and I parted ways at the market because it's too frustrating to try to stay together. When I got back I was happy to find he had seen it too. I didn't have a camera but even if i had I couldn't have photographed it well.

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