Friday, December 23, 2011

Thaton Temple


















We're in northern Laos right now but prior to crossing the Mekhong to Laos we hopped around northern Thailand near the Burmese Border, staying only a day in each place. This is partly to se more and partly because the travel itself,, although uncomfortable at times, is really fun in the trucks and local buses.
One stop was Thaton where we visited the only contemporary temple we've been in on our travels. Like most temples in the mountains it's high on a hill. After a arduous walk up one is always rewarded with spectacular views.
This temple was extraordinary. The architecture was not something we had seen before, layers of circular shapes on top of each other with a beautiful spire. The colors were pinks and golds and shades of blue.
Inside was flooded with natural light and it had a spiral ramp along the inside nearly reaching the top. There were four levels, each with an outside terrace , an inner perimeter filled with alcoves and a central sanctuary.
The temple was obviously influenced by a Chinese asthetic. The niches or alcoves each highlighted a beautiful Bhudda or porcelain figurines and wood fired pottery.
The giant dragon Naga was on the temple grounds. the picture of the cottage type place was about half way up the hill and was the living quarters for the monks.
It is Customary for young Bhuddist men to enter the temple for a period of time as a teenager or young adult. A wonderful young man we made friends with in Chaingmai spent three years as a monk from the age of 16 to 19. He said at the time he was not happy about it but in retrospect he is happy to have done it saying it prepared him to be a good husband and parent. He also said that now it is less customary for an extended time and is done for a short obligatory time like perhaps three months. He spent some time at this temple during his three years. You do see a lot of young novice monks but they are often from poor village families and it's seen as a way to get an education and a way to learn english which can greatly improve one's ability to earn a living latter on.
Later in the evening we spent the evening under the stars with a Belgian couple sitting four abreast, eating a fine meal and gazing up at the spectacle of the temple lit at night.

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